Norfolk Birding at its Best - 18th - 21st September 2020

When you plan an autumn trip to Norfolk months in advance, you can never count on good conditions. The chances are that you won't get them. So back in August, when I booked a 4 day trip to Norfolk from the 18th to the 21st of September, I was counting on a great trip full of resident specialities, lingering summer breeders and a few early arriving winter visitors which would make for a long trip list. Besides, Cranes, Bitterns, Bearded Tits and Spoonbills are more than enough to keep me happy even in the worst migration conditions.

But as the days went by, I couldn't help but start to glance at the winds on Windy.com. And there they were - easterlies - starting a few days before the trip and continuing until the 21st. I didn't let myself get excited; after all, forecasts can be (and often are) wrong, with the winds all to often swinging back round to SW at the last minute just as you've got your hopes up. But this time my hopes were realised. To say that we were lucky was an understatement. Just a few days either side and I would have missed them. 

The trip exceeded all expectations; 133 species in just 4 days and highlights included Brown Shrike, Red-backed Shrike, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Lapland Bunting, Bearded Tit, Yellow-browed Warbler, lots of Pied Flycatcher & Redstarts, Tree Pipit, Brambling, Redwing, Crane, Firecrest, Spoonbill, Pink-footed Goose, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Lesser Redpoll and Great White Egret. 

It was very much a case of any species is possible and not very often do you see Lapland Bunting and Brambling in the same trip as Hobby and Willow Warbler. It wasn't all about the range of species though, and the trip was bookended by 2 classic "Norfolk experiences"; Cranes bugling overhead in a broads sunset and the sight of 1000s of waders flying overhead at Snettisham. It was a relaxing and yet bird-filled trip. I am quite sure that well over 100 species in a day would have been easily possible on the coast on these days; we recorded around 80-90 species on most days despite most days being spent at just 1 or 2 sites.

Day 1: 18th Sept - Minsmere, Great Yarmouth & Hickling Broad

The day started as my dad and I left Leicestershire at 06:30, arriving at Minsmere shortly before 10:00. This was my first visit to Minsmere and I was really impressed by the reserve. We quickly found a Lesser Whitethroat in the North Bushes as we set off around the scrape trail, this was to be the only one of the trip. Ironically, despite them being the thing that made the trip, we soon became quite annoyed by the raging easterly winds which hampered our attempts at sea watching and hunting for Bearded Tits, which are notoriously fair-weather birds. Miraculously, a Dartford Warbler still showed well alongside the path before East Hide, which was another important tick. We quickly added Common Sandpiper, Avocet, Pintail and lots more on the East Scrape, as well as Mediterranean Gull and Common Scoter over the sea.

Stopping for lunch back at the car park, we went back to the Wildlife Lookout and found a Green Sandpiper, before continuing around the Reedbed Trail to the Island Mere Hide. Along this trail we stumbled across a large tit flock and added Marsh Tit, Treecreeper, GS Woodpecker and Coal Tit to our day list. Hobbies hawked over the trees and gave great views both along the trail and from the hide itself. Here, we also saw Great White Egret, heard Bearded Tits deep in the reeds and searched in vain for Bittern. Flocks of Siskin passed continually overhead - the tail-end of a great autumn passage of this species in recent weeks. 

At 14:00 we left Minsmere, having seen 60 species, and headed north into Norfolk. Great Yarmouth Cemetery proved a disappointing stop on our way to our hotel in Caister-on-Sea. After half an hour covering both sides of Kitchener Road, we had just a Sparrowhawk and 2 Robin to show for our efforts, though perhaps since there had been no recent migrant falls this was not surprising.

We checked into our hotel and had a quick breather before heading out again for our evening in the broads. Arriving for a flying stop at Runham, the recent host of a Lesser Yellowlegs, we were told by others that the bird had been flushed onto the river by a couple of walkers just minutes before our arrival! While we waited, we found Water Rail and Yellow Wagtail on the pools alongside the footpath which were a welcome consolation. We would have loved to stay longer but had intended to make just a half hour stop here as we were passing by, in case the Yellowlegs was on show, as we wanted to head to Stubb Mill before sunset.

Marsh Harriers delighted at Stubb Mill and at least 12 could be seen in the air at any one time. Barn Owls were conspicuous in their absence however. We also enjoyed views of Brown Hare, Chinese Water Deer and Muntjacs in the fields. Being a bit early in the season for Hen Harrier and Merlin (though always possible), our main target here was both to soak up the views of sunset in the broads and to see Crane. It took a little while, but at 19:15, 12 birds flew over in two groups, calling loudly. Their evocative sound was an incredible end to the first day!

Day 2: 19th Sept - Warham Greens, Burnham Overy & Holkham Pines

These two days had been earmarked as migration days, I had kept them free to go where felt best at the time, and the conditions certainly obliged! The previous day, a Brown Shrike had been found along the coastal path at Warham Greens and so we made this our first stop. Arriving at 10:00 after driving up from Caister, the area was already busy with other birders, but everyone was very well behaved and so was the bird - it showed fantastically well, hunting from the hedgerow. We had wonderful views and soaked up all the subtleties of its plumage. 

While we watched, we also saw a lovely Redstart, Redpoll, Skylark, Blackcap and a Sand Martin flew over - there was definitely a sense of migration going on all around us.

I decided to head to Burnham Overy next, parking in the car park on the A149 east of the village and walking along the footpath north towards the sea wall. We planned to do the long walk to the coast, east through the dunes and into Holkham Pines, as this covered a huge range of migrant habitat and seemed full of potential. The sea wall itself was extremely exposed in the strong wind so we saw very little until we got into the shelter of the dunes. Wheatear was the best bird here, but we failed to find the Wryneck which had been reported earlier on, though it was admittedly always unlikely! 

The brambles and trees at the eastern end of the dunes where they meet the pines were much more productive, and here we found another Redstart and a Whinchat whilst we ate our lunch. Meanwhile, a Bonelli's Warbler had been reported in Holkham and a Red-breasted Flycatcher and Red-backed Shrike in Wells Woods - it really felt like anything could turn up! 

We moved into the pines, and spotted a third Redstart in a large oak tree just past The Crosstracks. There seemed to be a lot about so we stopped and watched for a while, finding a Willow Warbler, several Chiffchaff, Treecreeper and best of all a showy Pied Flycatcher. We also scoped my first Pink-footed Geese of the autumn on the freshmarsh.

The time was getting on and we had a long walk back to the car, so we headed back, seeing another Wheatear, Blackcap and hearing a probable Brambling just before the end of the pines.

With a few hours before our evening meal, we stopped on Lady Anne's Drive for a quick look at Holkham Pines. The area was busy with birders looking for a reported Red-breasted Flycatcher. We ended the day here, finding yet another Pied Flycatcher by Washington Hide.

After another great day, we headed east to our hotel in Upper Sheringham.

Day 3: 20th Sept - Sheringham Park, Sheringham Sea Front, Wells Woods & Stiffkey

Breakfast at the hotel started at 08:00 this morning, so we decided to go for a pre-breakfast walk in Sheringham Park which was located just behind the hotel. Nuthatch was an overdue addition to the trip list but the bird of the morning was without a doubt Firecrest. We saw several of these great little birds but one in particular showed extremely well at eye-level. Being a midlands birder, I don't see Firecrests nearly enough. 

The hotel's great location meant that we were only 5 minutes drive from Sheringham sea front and this was our first stop after breakfast. We parked on the esplanade and walked through the arch and down to the promenade. One other birder was in the shelter when we arrived. He had already seen a Great Shearwater distantly early morning! Over the course of an hour, we had great views of a variety of species, most of which were passing quite close in. Nothing as rare as Great Shearwater, but Eider, Common Scoter, large flocks of Brent Goose, Sandwich Tern, Great Skua, Razorbill, Guillemot and Fulmar were all highlights. Best bird though had to go to the many Red-throated Divers which passed close inshore, all of which were adults and many still sported their breeding plumage! Sheringham really offers the best sea watching I have ever had. The shelters provide lots of cover from the wind and the elevated position affords great views over the sea.

Next up was Wells Woods. Only initial planning to spend 2 hours or so here, we soon decided to give it a lot more time. The woods were full of migrants, and we birded here from 11:00 through to 16:30. 

We first bird we tried for was yesterday's Red-backed Shrike which had apparently been seen from the corner of the main path as it bends round to face the north, southwest of the Dell. There was no sign here, despite it being seen regularly all morning but while waiting I did see 2 Grey Partridges and my first Redwing of the autumn flew over, which was a welcome surprise.

The Red-breasted Flycatcher in the birches south of the Dell was much more well-behaved and it performed beautifully, although extremely mobile, actively feeding in the canopy. This was such a fantastic bird, and I enjoyed the photography challenge as it darted between the branches.

Over the next few hours we covered a lot of ground, mainly concentrating on a small radius around the dell where most of the birds seemed to be. See the annotated map below for the areas I found most productive. 

The map was found on the following birdforum article: https://birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=59348&page=541 which I found quite helpful

Over the course of the afternoon we found 5 Brambling, 1 possibly 2 Yellow-browed Warbler, 3 Pied Flycatcher, 2 Redstart, Tree Pipit and Redwing. What a day! The woods were alive with tit flocks and migrants and it really felt like anything was possible. I will admit that I couldn't help myself checking that the Tree Pipit wasn't Olive-backed with a hint of optimism.

The diagnostic white tail-sides of the Red-breasted Flycatcher

Despite regularly checking the fenceline, we still hadn't found the Red-backed Shrike. We were about to give up when there was another report, this time much further down the path that runs south past the caravan site. It was probably there the whole time! Sure enough, we rushed down there expecting a quick glimpse but found it perfectly contentedly sat on the wires. I believe it remained there on show for a few hours!

(from top to bottom): Red-backed Shrike, Red-breasted Flycatcher, Pied Flycatcher

There wasn't much of the day left, but as we headed back east we stopped at Stiffkey Fen and found 2 Spoonbill, a Great White Egret, Green Sandpiper and several Ruff.

Being so close to the hotel, we thought it couldn't hurt to stop once more at Sheringham for a sea watch. After half an hour though, it was clear things weren't moving like they were this morning, and we had seen just 3 Gannet and 4 Turnstone. The highlight of the sea watch was hearing the cries of a nearby tourist which told us that Liverpool had made it 2-0 against Chelsea!

Day 4: 21st Sept - Snettisham & Titchwell

Today I planned to visit the sites in West Norfolk as they were on the way home. It really felt like things were following a script, and now that our days earmarked as migrant-days were over, the easterlies disappeared on cue and left us to concentrate on the two final reserves of the trip.

We arrived at Snettisham at around 07:45, half an hour after the time suggested by the RSPB for witnessing the shorebird spectacular. High tide was around 09:30, and we walked down to the wader watchpoint in the heavy mist, unable to see more than 100m in front of us. We couldn't help but wonder if we'd actually be able to see the waders at all! However, as we joined the other birders lined up along the bank, the mist almost immediately began to lift, revealing thousands of waders, Oystercatchers and Knot, huddled on the Wash. Redshanks, Dunlin, Ringed Plover and Bar-tailed Godwits provided the supporting cast and I picked out a few Sanderling from amongst them. 2 Curlew Sandpipers, which gave nice views as they flew over, were a great addition.

Oystercatchers provided the first act, with huge flocks flying noisily overhead onto the pits behind. This was my first time witnessing the Snettisham roost and I was already impressed.

If the Oystercatchers were impressive though, it was nothing compared to the Knot. Pictures and videos simply cannot do justice to the sound and the sight of these birds as they swirl above you. Looking up, there almost appears to be more bird than sky and it's almost as though you can feel the wind from their simultaneous wingbeats.

The tide comes in quickly on the Wash, and at least an hour before the tide, the birds were up and swirling over the pits. We moved round to the new hide - an innovative new design - hoping to get a quick look before a queue formed due to the limit on the number of people allowed at any one time. From here, we enjoyed views of the settled flock, moving back and forth like a Mexican wave. The roost at Snettisham really is something that any birder has to experience at some point.

On the walk back from the pits, we stopped to look through a group of assorted small waders on the shore adjacent to Pit 2. They were mostly Dunlin and Ringed Plover but we also picked a few Sanderling and a nice juvenile Little Stint. Passerines included Wheatear, Blackcap and a heard-only Cetti's warbler.

Moving onto Titchwell, we arrived around 11:00. Titchwell is without doubt my favourite reserve and today it once again reminded me why. 

We started on the fresh marsh which was packed with birds. Spoonbills, Great White Egret and a few Avocets were the standouts from the many commoner species. Marsh Harriers quartered the reeds, Reed Warblers hopped at their bases and Bearded Tits were extremely vocal from the West Bank Path before Island Hide. Sadly though they weren't particularly showy despite the complete lack of wind and warm weather - we had to make do with just a couple of quick flight views on this visit. Most surprising though, was the briefest glimpse of a Harvet Mouse as it darted across the path by the parrinder junction. I just had time to register its sandy brown colour before it disappeared into the path side vegetation.

Grey Plover, Turnstone and Bar-tailed Godwit showed on the tidal pool as we made our way to the beach. We walked west of the end of the boardwalk for a few hundred metres, running into some birders who had just seen Lapland Bunting on the beach not long before. Sadly though there was no sign when we arrived at the spot and resigned ourselves to the fact they probably wouldn't be seen again.

We watched the sea for a while, picking up a close Guillemot, 10 Great Crested Grebe and some more Common Scoter but little else of note. The sea was remarkably flat so much so that grebes on the sea over a mile away could be watched the entire time, without bobbing up and down out of view. A very distant Skua sp. which I think was probably Arctic was left unidentified. Sanderling ran along the tideline with the Bar-tailed Godwits.

After a short while, I heard a distinctive call behind us. One that I had learnt before coming here. Lapland Bunting! Sure enough, we turned in time to see one flying west towards Thornham Point over the dunes. Not a great view but it's a fantastic feeling recognising a call in the field that you've just learnt! This was also a full-blown lifer. It was also bird number 130 of the trip, exactly half of 260, to which it brought my UK life list!

We left the beach in a great mood, finding Greenshank in Thornham Pool on the way back to the café. The excitement was hampered slightly on finding that the café were not serving their famous bacon rolls, in fact no hot food at all in the ongoing pandemic. The whole visit to Titchwell was a rather stark reminder of the current situation, but it is a testament to the staff that the atmosphere around the visitor centre reminded cheerful and welcoming despite the limitations.

A Tufted Duck on Patsy's was bird #132 and then all too soon it was time to leave, stopping at Choseley Drying Barns on the way home to add the glaring omission of Red-legged Partridge to our final list.

Species Total: 133